Grand Canyon-Grandview-Grand Adventure

We arrived at the Back Country office of the Grand Canyon National Park at about 7:15 AM, met our guide, Julie, and caravanned over to Grandview Trail. I had spoken to Julie a few days before on the phone. During that conversation and again upon meeting her she warned and advised us that Grandview was an intense and strenuous trail and said we may want to consider another. No problem, we say, we're ready to do this.

I don't think any combination of words can accurately describe the scene before us as we began our decent into the Canyon. Initially an Indian trail, Grandview was built up in the mid 1800's by miner Peter Berry. The first portion was makeshift steps constructed of rocks and wooden logs. That eventually turned into slopes embedded with stones that provided minimal traction. The stone slopes then became dirt trails that were periodically blocked by miscellaneous boulders and rocks that we had to scale. Regardless of the terrain, it was almost always at a 45 degree angle. At it's widest the trail was probably about two feet but the majority of the time it was closer to one. There were no rails, barricades, or safety nets, just you, the trail, and the cliff.

The extremity of the trail made it somewhat difficult to focus on the beauty of the Canyon, but we managed to take pictures and pause periodically to enjoy the view. We saw and photographed portions of the Canyon that hardly anyone ever gets to see. Since Bright Angel trail and Kaibab trail are frequented more often we were generally alone along Grandview. We did meet a few groups - one from Boston had been hiking and camping in the Canyon for 6 days. Another hiked the trail as part of an effort to raise money for blood cancer research.

It took us about 2 hours to cover the 3 miles of trail, 2000 feet of elevation, and 1.8 billion years of erosion on the way down. We stopped for a few minutes to admire Horseshoe Mesa and marvel at how far we'd come before breaking for lunch just outside of an old mine entrance. Virtually the minute we started ascending it became more difficult to breath. The constant strain of resisting the bodies urge to go forward on the way down seemed like nothing compared to the effort required to propel yourself upward. It became clear very quickly that the trek back would be much more laborious than the trek down.

For every ten minutes of hiking there was ten minutes of resting. I didn't notice much on the way down, but the frequency of the switch backs is really discouraging. The trail essentially runs in a zig zag pattern back and forth along the edge of the canyon so your constantly switching back and forth making minimal progress each time. We ran out of water by the end. We kept passing and being passed by other groups; everyone was exhausted and praying that the next switch back would be the last. Finally, after what seemed like an eternity, we made it to the
top. Sweet victory.

Despite our success we did lose battles along the way. Andy suffered a little heat exhaustion and painful leg cramps, I managed to pull muscles in my right ankle and right butt cheek, and although Sean repeatedly asserted that he wasn't sore it turned out that his back and hips were in less than perfect condition. Although it was possible to hike the trail without a guide, we are all happy that Julie was with us. Her knowledge, experience and company made the hike much more enjoyable and a little less frightening. She informed us that of the 5 million people who visit the Grand Canyon every year, only 3-5% of them actually go below the rim. She commended us for being among the few who experience the Grand Canyon instead of just admiring it.

The Grand Canyon. I would venture to say it is a beast of sorts in rare form. It seems innocent enough looking out from the rim; stunning formations, valleys as far as the eye can see, a light breeze and a peaceful calm. It appears to be nothing more than a passive wonder of nature offering breathtaking views and an inspirational presence, but looks can be deceiving.

Gas Price Log - NM, AZ, and UT

May 16-21, 2009
Santa Rosa, NM
Gas Price: $2.24

Petrified National Forest, AZ
Gas Price: $2.43

Flagstaff, AZ
Gas Price Range: $2.09-2.15

Sedona, AZ
Gas Price: $2.09

Tusaya, AZ
Gas Price: $2.79

Springdale, UT
Gas Price: $2.59

Fillmore, UT
Gas Price: $2.39

Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives - Brandy's

Our second Diner's, Drive-Ins and Dives experience was at Brandy's Restaurant and Bakery, a small diner in Flagstaff. Unlike Mama E's, there was no mistaking that Guy had already been through. There was a TV on in the back continuously replaying the show segment featuring Brandy's. There was also a wall of fame so to speak featuring a signed poster of Guy, multiple framed pictures, and a spray painted likeness of Guy and the Food Network logo.

In typical Sunday fashion the diner was packed with the mid-morning rush. We managed to slip in and get a table right away and ordered just as quickly. Andy got Eggs Brandy, or poached eggs on a bagel with some sort of mysterious, delicious sauce and a buttermilk pancake. Sean got the Chorizo Scramble, which combined chorizo sausage, scrambled eggs, peppers, onions and spices along with a buttermilk pancake. I got my typical morning after drinking breakfast which consists of fried eggs over easy, wheat toast and green tea plus an uncharacteristic buttermilk pancake. The pancake was so fluffy and savory it practically melted in your mouth. After breakfast it was difficult to hold back from purchasing one of the hundreds of baked treats ranging from muffins and scones to brownies and cakes.

I didn't get as much of a close-knit, small family feel here as I did at Mama E's. Instead of being in a free standing building it was in a shopping center, and there were multiple servers, cooks, and people all around as opposed to the three people inside of Mama E's. Despite this, the food was still sensational and we left happy and satisfied. My only regret is that we didn't get to sample the lunch menu.

From Flagstaff to Fossil Creek

We arrived at Janae’s house in Flagstaff around 7 PM on May 16th. I don’t think any of us knew what to expect. Andy had last seen Janae two years ago at their cousin’s wedding at which time he determined that she was cool and they had some similar interests; prior to that it had been about 10 years since he’d seen her.

As soon as we walked in it was immediately apparent that we were in friendly and familiar territory. A Pink Floyd poster hung on the wall adjacent to mounted snowboards and guitars. In one corner stood a drum kit, in the other, a mountain bike. Failed attempts at growing squash and eggplant sat on the windowsill. These observations all came second to the loud and excited greetings of Cheeba, Rio and Pica.

After initial greetings, a pow wow, and a get to know you chat we headed to downtown Flagstaff for dinner and drinks. During dinner we had political, societal and philosophical conversations about socialism, healthcare, the public school system, vegetarianism, and why Flagstaff is the best place to live. The streets were lined with quaint shops, restaurants, and bars set against a backdrop of looming mountain tops. I feel the town is best described as an eclectic mix of college students, hippies, outdoor enthusiasts, or a combination of all of the above.

I couldn’t classify either of the bars we went to if I tried. There were young people, old people, students, bikers, dread heads, blacks, whites, you name it. I loved every second of it. I wish every bar was so diverse and interesting instead of generic or segregated. One bar had a ping pong table and I regret to say that Andy beat me 23 to 21 after I talked a mess about how I was going to redeem myself for the last three times he beat me back home. At one point, after we had consumed about four beers, it was brought to our attention that we might want to take it easy because being over 7000 feet above sea level tends to have an intensifying effect.

We got back to the house around one and passed out quite comfortably in the living room until the next morning at eight when we begrudgingly rose to clean out and reorganize the car for the third or fourth time. Janae and her friends insisted that we go to Fossil Creek avowing that the tumultuous drive, crystal clear water, cliff jumping, scenic views, and lack of tourists made it worth the extra two hours of driving. On the way we went through Sedona by way of highway 89 which was an extraordinarily beautiful mountain drive. The last leg of the journey took place along a rocky dirt road that caused me quite a bit of anxiety; there were no railings and two cars could barely pass one another. My only saving grace was that I was driving otherwise I would have been absolutely terrified.

Although we didn’t get to hike up to the source of the creek, we did take a refreshing swim and jump off of some small cliffs. At parts the current was noticeably strong and I found myself losing my footing and bumping into rocks. I couldn’t help but shudder as I watched little kids playing in the midst of the rushing water apparently unattended. We had to save our energy for the next day’s Grand Canyon hike, so after about an hour we continued on to Tusayan where we would hydrate and rest in preparation for the coming strenuous adventure.

P-Style Anyone?

Given the controversy, confusion and trepidations surrounding this particular possession of mine, and all the attention it receives every time it is mentioned, I feel it is only appropriate that I include a brief explanation of the P-Style. The P-Style is a device which enables a female to pee standing up. I can't even begin to tell you how useful this is for road trips, camping, concerts, hiking, etc. Essentially, the P-Style allows females to relieve themselves with same ease and freedom as males when more desirable facilities are lacking, unsanitary or unavailable.

The initial reaction always seem to be "eww, gross" which I feel is unwarranted. The sheer convenience of this item cancels out any gross or weird factor. I would venture to say that any female partaking in an experience such as the one I am currently would much rather use this ingenious invention than the traditional method of "popping a squat" which I think we all know is less than desirable.

I'll spare you the instructional rhetoric but I will include Sean and Andy's explanation of the shape of the P-Style. According to them, it is reminiscent of the spoons they give you when you order Miso Soup. Interestingly, I actually learned of the P-Style last year when Sean, Andy, Gavin, Zach, Eric and Victor returned from Bonnaroo, a music festival, telling tales of girls who could by some miracle pee standing up using this mysterious device. If nothing else, it makes for an interesting conversation; seeing people's initial reactions has proven to be both priceless and hilarious.

Nature's Artwork - The Painted Desert

The morning after our desert adventure we started out towards Flagstaff hoping to spend the night at Andy's cousin Janae's house. On the way we decided to stop at Petrified Forest National Park. Since we wanted to make it to Flagstaff by a decent hour we limited ourselves to the Painted Desert portion and skipped the actual Petrified Forest. Despite this attempt at saving time, we were still there for over four hours.

The Painted Desert is without a doubt the most magnificent place I have ever seen. The sheer vastness itself is not only humbling, but peaceful, calming, inspiring, and utterly incomparable. The coloring of the landscape was so intensely beautiful. Some portions were a progression of dusty brick red, coral, and rust shades while others were steel and powder blue. Some of the most beautiful formations incorporated combinations of the red and blue shades resulting in an incredibly striking contrast. While many of the colors blended seamlessly together, others were organized as distinctive stripes of color giving the impression of a meticulously detailed painting. Intermixed with the colorful peaks and valleys were rolling hills covered in lush green undergrowth and protruding rock formations. The occasional puffy white cloud cast a remarkable shadow over portions of the immense landscape giving the appearance of intermittent dark gray blankets stretching over peaks and across valleys.

In addition to the grand vistas there were also remnants of civilizations past. The Pueblo Puerco compound was originally a central courtyard surrounded by individual rooms for housing and storage. Rocks nearby the remains of the compound displayed petroglyphs, or pictures and symbols etched into the earth. The Painted Desert Inn was originally built in the 1800s. Composed of mud, clay and wooden rafters, this traditional style building maintains its original charm and classic appearance despite restorations.

After several stops at various lookout points it seemed that an apparently hungry and unfrightened crow was actually following us. The bird literally allowed Andy and I to sit three feet away without so much as a flinch. As we made our way to a particular lookout point Sean noticed what appeared to be a deer at first glance a few hundred yards away. We pulled off the road and by some miracle my finicky telephoto lens decided to work for about three minutes while I took some tremendous shots. As far as we can tell it was a species of Prong Horn, a distant relative of the deer.

As we left the park we still hadn't spoken with Janae. All we could do was hope that in the next two hours before we got there Andy would be able to get in touch with her. At that point I wasn't concerned about trivial things like having a place to sleep for the night, I was still in awe of the breathtaking scenery known as the Painted Desert.

Operation Desert Storm

We drove into Santa Rosa, NM last night with intentions to camp at Santa Rosa Lake State Park. We arrived around 6:30 and drove about 7 miles out from civilization to a desolate desert landscape. Flora was limited to sporadic tree-like bushes and the occasional cactus. Every step was accompanied by an audible crackling as the dead, dry grasses and broken limbs gave way under our weight. We hiked downhill about three-quarters of a mile to the edge of the lake encountering lizards, crickets, birds and jack rabbits along the way. Snakes were a concern as we weaved our way through the tall grasses but thankfully there were no unwelcome encounters.

We returned to the road, set up our camp and prepared for dinner; mac and cheese with hot dogs (for Sean and Andy). As the sun set the wind began to pick up taking on ferocious speeds up to 25 miles per hour. Andy and Sean struggled to tie down our tent as I unsuccessfully attempted to cook macaroni on our butane powered stove. It became clear within minutes that our tent would not be able to withstand these conditions. Intermittent gusts flattened the tent on top of itself as it tried valiantly to break away from the rocks that were pinning it to the dusty desert floor.

At this point we began ferrying all of our belongings back to the car. Not only had the wind picked up, but the temperature dropped, mischievous looking clouds rolled in, and the blackness of the night surrounded us. Despite the chaos I was somehow able to cook four hot dogs for Sean and Andy. With all of our belongings safely tossed haphazardly into the car we made our way to a nearby Motel 8, somewhat defeated. I, however, was quite content, anticipating the gloriousness of four walls, a bed and a real bathroom.

As it turned out, temperatures dropped into the low 50s last night and it started raining during the early morning hours. I can't say I'm disappointed that I avoided waking up to the unexpected sensation of raindrops pelting me in the face. Instead, I enjoyed the previously taken for granted and under appreciated warmth of a cozy bed and the satisfaction of a hot breakfast. Ultimately, our experience in the lonesome New Mexico desert, isolated by miles of flat, deserted plains, is one that I will look back on and smile, remembering fondly our shattered expectations and admirable adaptation.