Reflection Point - Two Weeks

Exactly two weeks ago today, Andy and I boarded a plane to Atlanta in a state of excited uncertainty. Although I didn't know exactly what to expect, I tried to prepare myself for the possibilities. Now, we have completed a significant portion of our journey and I find myself at an interesting crossroads. In many ways I have adapted to the demands of this excursion, in other ways not so much. We have also collectively adapted, slowly but surely discovering better and more efficient ways to do things. In a way time seems to fly, yet it is also simultaneously dragging.

I get exhausted just thinking about all we've done and how far we've come; fourteen states in fourteen days. We marveled at the beauty of the Painted Desert, hiked our way through 6 miles of treacherous terrain in the Grand Canyon, saw a plethora of wildlife and natural wonders in Zion, and spent three days taking in the scenery of Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons. I think the sheer incredibility of it all is one of things helping me hold it together.

It wasn't until a few days ago when the first wave of frustration and helplessness came over me. We have discussed several times now the fact that this isn't a vacation, it's a trip. This isn't about relaxing or leisurely taking in the sights and sounds of America - it's about experiencing America. In spirit and in action I am one hundred percent on board with this, but the daily processes required to maintain and progress are taking a toll. For instance, performing normal daily activities like cooking, eating, cleaning, showering, and dressing among others are so decentralized each becomes a monumental task in and of itself. When you're never in any one place for more than a day or two you lack a sense of establishment. Time is a factor so the minute you wake you are rolling up your sleeping bag, collecting your things, packing your bag, organizing the car, figuring out what to do and where to go. It's difficult to find a moment to collect yourself, gather your thoughts,and simply take a step back to appreciate.

The amusing part is that things that would have struck me as intolerable in the beginning are not only trivial but easily endurable and expected. For instance, not showering for a day or two can be dealt with, sharing the bathroom with a few species of insect is commonplace, eating off of dishes still crusted with remnants of the previous meal is inconsequential, and wearing clothes that are technically dirty is both necessary and economical. Although I have struggled to repress a few episodes of disillusionment, at this point it only takes me a few minutes or a good nights rest to rationalize. The magnitude and awesomeness of this experience outweighs any drawbacks, and when it does come to an end, I don't want to look back and regret instances where the potential for enjoyment was suppressed by less desirable emotions.

The Wonders of Wyoming

We arrived in Jackson, WY in the early afternoon excited at the prospect of spending more than a single night in one place. The cabin we reserved was at the back of a KOA Kampground overlooking the Snake River. This little one room cabin struck me as absolutely perfect. It had a roof, four walls, a set of bunk beds, a double bed, a heater, a little table, a front porch, a swinging bench, a picnic table, and a grill. At the time it seemed that we would have an immeasurable amount of time to relax in between the various activities we had planned for this leg of the journey, but as it turned out, it wasn't nearly as relaxing as we had anticipated.

That first night we went into the town of Jackson to grab dinner and quickly learned that not much was open at ten o'clock. We ended up getting an enormous slice of pizza and a tall boy for five bucks before heading back to our little log cabin by the river. All through the night and into the next morning we were all greatly anticipating the coming white water rafting trip.

By 9:30 we were ready to go equipped with wet suits and booties awaiting the arrival of the bus that would take us to the launching point. When we got there we met our guide, Bryce, and our safety kayaker, Arnie, who set us up with life jackets, paddles, and gave us a brief safety pitch. Originally we were supposed to take an 8 man raft trip but it got switched to a larger raft for safety purposes; because the snow is all rapidly melting at this time the water level of the river is significantly higher than usual. In addition to us and our guide there were two families who accompanied us on the rafting trip totaling eleven people. Sean and Andy sat in the very front on either side making them the pace setters and lead paddlers. I made the mistake of sitting two people behind them towards the back causing me to miss out on all the big waves and exciting turbulence.

The ride was entirely too short and I found myself wishing we could go again. Bryce told us some awesome rafting and kayaking stories along the way and Arnie actually had to bail out of his kayak during the Lunch Counter rapid and we had to pull him and his kayak into our raft and then launch him out again. We also saw some pretty amazing scenery along the way gazing up at the surrounding mountains and one lady even said she caught a glimpse of a black bear.

Back at the cabin we decided to take it easy. We had grilled cheese, soup, and beer for lunch, rested for a few hours, and then set out to explore the town of Jackson Hole. We walked around all the little shops, through the town square, and then ate dinner at a charming organic restaurant called Cafe Luna. We left early the next morning for Grand Teton National Park hoping to see some wildlife before they retreated into the forest for the afternoon. Unfortunately the day was incredibly dismal and dreary; it was overcast, cold, and drizzly. We were all feeling a little in sync with the weather lacking motivation, low on energy and simply burnt out. Despite the imperfect weather, we did see some amazing views of the Teton mountains shrouded in low lying clouds, an incredibly indifferent deer, and remarkably, a mother moose and her calf hidden among a cluster of trees.

The next day we headed out to Yellowstone, which was surprisingly covered in snow. On our way in we passed a giant lake that was actually still frozen. I've never seen a frozen body of water before in my life. Damage from the fire of '88 was still evident with barren trees speckling the landscape; however, new life is finally emerging in the form of lush green pines about a quarter of the size of the remaining scorched trunks. Our first stop was naturally Old Faithful, which we watched erupt along with hundreds of other eager spectators. Then we followed the wooden boardwalk and looped around all of the other hot springs and geysers surrounding Old Faithful. We ate lunch in the Yellowstone Lodge before driving to see a few other hot springs and mud pits. During our drive we saw several herds of grazing bison, a few herds of female elk, and a lone coyote circling a deserted hillside.

On our way out the following day we briefly went back to Yellowstone to visit the Yellowstone Grand Canyon and see Yellowstone Falls. The view was incredible and the upper waterfall was sensational. We saw many more buffalo roaming the fields and were lucky enough to see another coyote, this time he actually crossed the street in front of us and then ambled alongside our car for a few minutes. As we made our way towards the exit heading for Lake Tahoe, I was disappointed that we hadn't seen a bear. My hopes remain high since there is still a chance we might see one in Yosemite.

Jackson Hole and the surrounding area is truly an enchanting place. In addition to the amazing scenery and classic Midwestern ambiance we were mesmerized by the brilliant night sky and the glistening snow. The shimmering stars crowded the sky so densely the blackness barely shone through. Apparently the snow had melted rapidly in the week before we got there and it continued to stealthily disintegrate throughout our stay. The river level behind our cabin rose dramatically just in the three days we were there. Slowly but surely, some semblance of Spring was attempting to break out in Jackson Hole.

During our time in Jackson I couldn't help but think about the unique lives of its residents and for that matter the lives of the people in many of the places we have been so far. Imagine being a hiking guide in the Grand Canyon, a white water rafting guide along the Snake River, or a rodeo cowboy. You might not make too much money and you might not inhabit the most impressive of homes, but I would imagine that life would be more about living instead of doing. Bending over backwards to make a buck doing something you don't enjoy has never seemed sillier, living in the midst of commercialized urban sprawl has never been less appealing, and forgoing happiness for the sake of superficial societal norms has never seemed more misguided than at this moment.

Grand Canyon-Grandview-Grand Adventure

We arrived at the Back Country office of the Grand Canyon National Park at about 7:15 AM, met our guide, Julie, and caravanned over to Grandview Trail. I had spoken to Julie a few days before on the phone. During that conversation and again upon meeting her she warned and advised us that Grandview was an intense and strenuous trail and said we may want to consider another. No problem, we say, we're ready to do this.

I don't think any combination of words can accurately describe the scene before us as we began our decent into the Canyon. Initially an Indian trail, Grandview was built up in the mid 1800's by miner Peter Berry. The first portion was makeshift steps constructed of rocks and wooden logs. That eventually turned into slopes embedded with stones that provided minimal traction. The stone slopes then became dirt trails that were periodically blocked by miscellaneous boulders and rocks that we had to scale. Regardless of the terrain, it was almost always at a 45 degree angle. At it's widest the trail was probably about two feet but the majority of the time it was closer to one. There were no rails, barricades, or safety nets, just you, the trail, and the cliff.

The extremity of the trail made it somewhat difficult to focus on the beauty of the Canyon, but we managed to take pictures and pause periodically to enjoy the view. We saw and photographed portions of the Canyon that hardly anyone ever gets to see. Since Bright Angel trail and Kaibab trail are frequented more often we were generally alone along Grandview. We did meet a few groups - one from Boston had been hiking and camping in the Canyon for 6 days. Another hiked the trail as part of an effort to raise money for blood cancer research.

It took us about 2 hours to cover the 3 miles of trail, 2000 feet of elevation, and 1.8 billion years of erosion on the way down. We stopped for a few minutes to admire Horseshoe Mesa and marvel at how far we'd come before breaking for lunch just outside of an old mine entrance. Virtually the minute we started ascending it became more difficult to breath. The constant strain of resisting the bodies urge to go forward on the way down seemed like nothing compared to the effort required to propel yourself upward. It became clear very quickly that the trek back would be much more laborious than the trek down.

For every ten minutes of hiking there was ten minutes of resting. I didn't notice much on the way down, but the frequency of the switch backs is really discouraging. The trail essentially runs in a zig zag pattern back and forth along the edge of the canyon so your constantly switching back and forth making minimal progress each time. We ran out of water by the end. We kept passing and being passed by other groups; everyone was exhausted and praying that the next switch back would be the last. Finally, after what seemed like an eternity, we made it to the
top. Sweet victory.

Despite our success we did lose battles along the way. Andy suffered a little heat exhaustion and painful leg cramps, I managed to pull muscles in my right ankle and right butt cheek, and although Sean repeatedly asserted that he wasn't sore it turned out that his back and hips were in less than perfect condition. Although it was possible to hike the trail without a guide, we are all happy that Julie was with us. Her knowledge, experience and company made the hike much more enjoyable and a little less frightening. She informed us that of the 5 million people who visit the Grand Canyon every year, only 3-5% of them actually go below the rim. She commended us for being among the few who experience the Grand Canyon instead of just admiring it.

The Grand Canyon. I would venture to say it is a beast of sorts in rare form. It seems innocent enough looking out from the rim; stunning formations, valleys as far as the eye can see, a light breeze and a peaceful calm. It appears to be nothing more than a passive wonder of nature offering breathtaking views and an inspirational presence, but looks can be deceiving.

P-Style Anyone?

Given the controversy, confusion and trepidations surrounding this particular possession of mine, and all the attention it receives every time it is mentioned, I feel it is only appropriate that I include a brief explanation of the P-Style. The P-Style is a device which enables a female to pee standing up. I can't even begin to tell you how useful this is for road trips, camping, concerts, hiking, etc. Essentially, the P-Style allows females to relieve themselves with same ease and freedom as males when more desirable facilities are lacking, unsanitary or unavailable.

The initial reaction always seem to be "eww, gross" which I feel is unwarranted. The sheer convenience of this item cancels out any gross or weird factor. I would venture to say that any female partaking in an experience such as the one I am currently would much rather use this ingenious invention than the traditional method of "popping a squat" which I think we all know is less than desirable.

I'll spare you the instructional rhetoric but I will include Sean and Andy's explanation of the shape of the P-Style. According to them, it is reminiscent of the spoons they give you when you order Miso Soup. Interestingly, I actually learned of the P-Style last year when Sean, Andy, Gavin, Zach, Eric and Victor returned from Bonnaroo, a music festival, telling tales of girls who could by some miracle pee standing up using this mysterious device. If nothing else, it makes for an interesting conversation; seeing people's initial reactions has proven to be both priceless and hilarious.